Thursday AM, and JuJu’s birthday. We travelled to Angkor Wat, the tallest and most famous Cambodian temple.
The original name is Parama Vishnu Loka (Universe of Vishnu) and like many temples this one shifted emphasis between Hindu and Buddhist over the centuries.
It was constructed by Suryavarma II of 10 million stones transported by elephants from 50 km away in 15 ton cubes. 6,000 elephants and 30,000 workers were engaged from 1113 to 1150 C.E..
Angkor Wat is one of the 7 Wonders of the World. It is the largest religious building on earth (approximately one square mile). It is both Temple and Stupa (royal grave) and is 55 meters tall.
We sat at an exterior moat and watched the sun rise over the temple. At the spring equinox this occurs perfectly at the top peak of the central tower.
We entered over the huge moat, across a rainbow bridge, between two massive Naga, and through the first series of gates. The only word you can think of is MASSIVE.
Angkor Wat is also one of the most thoroughly restored temples in Cambodia. It’s a little confusing as to what’s old and what’s restored. But all renovations are made from the same quarries as the original mines (sans elephant.) Some care was given to leave evidence of desecration like these Khmer Rouge bullet holes in the first gate.
Other features of specific interest…
A 100 feet wall carving depicts an army of monkey troops (led by Hanuman the monkey God) in vicious hand to hand battle with both demons and enemies of the king. This mural represents the Battle of Lanka and the recapture of the abducted queen Sita – the last scene in an epic 8 hour Hindu saga.
Angkor Wat has several complete Buddhas including an 18 foot tall, 16th century statue that is a destination for Buddhists globally.
The Hindu faith has 37 heavens, and 32 hells (depending on the state of your karma and where Yama the God of Death sends you). Many steps, levels and features repeat this numerology. The cover charge for Barang foreigners? $37 U.S.
Bakon tower is the central tower. Much of it is closed for repair. A Korean NGO is funding a large project. An equally large restoration is indefinitely paused due to the elimination of USAID.
We climbed Bakon on 51 temporary wooden steps. They were very steep but the steps being repaired number only 37. More of a ladder really with 24″ vertical stone rungs. When open, guides were stationed at the bottom to assess whether you looked fit enough to climb.
At the top were spectacular views, more 16th century Buddhas (with heads) and more purification pools. We also met a couple from Boxford and debated whether the Community Store where the boys worked should be called Jack’s or Wayne’s (too weird).
Angkor Wat was our last temple and we need to confess some serious temple-fatigue. But I’m glad we saved the biggest for last. The learning of the last three days made digesting Angkor Wat… at least possible
Mac and Juju explore Southeast Asia 