Big day today
We started with a new guide, Siriporn (SIRI) at an Alley Market near the government center. Every street market has its differences. What stuck out to me here were the “ready go’s”- small plastic bags, or boxes, or bowls with multi-ingredient lunches. A government employees can buy his ready-go and steam or microwave it at the office or take it home for dinner. Many, many exotic options.
From there we walked across the street to a Monk mini-mall. It was 10-12 shops where monks (or folks who wanted to donate to temples) came from all over to buy robes, beads, statuary, writings, bells, etc.
Here we learned about Phra Mae Thoranee, the Thai Mother-Earth, who wrung her long hair to flood away Demons tempting the Buddha. She is a common character in Bangkok’s version of Buddhism (and a favorite of JuJu’s).
Next stop, the Thai Royal Palace and Temple of the Emerald Buddha.
There was a lot of construction and crowds at the palace due to the recent death of the Queen Mother (October ’25.) A huge crematorium was under construction which would be used once (!?) and then destroyed. And there were tons of orange robed monks and citizens dressed in black, coming to pay respect.
The temple and grounds are 60 acres, and they were just amazing. Built between 1782 and 1856, they reflected a newer style of ornate and light-reflecting tiles, gold leaf, and ceramic mosaics. They also displayed the Thai versions of the various Buddhist, Hindu and Animist entities – wilder, more Eastern, more colorful and more ornate.
Some other unique features included…
Stone Chinese Statuary that arrived in Thailand from China – originally as ships ballast!
12 Giant Demons guarding the four entrances. We learned that “demon” is a bad western translation and should be closer to “giant.” In this case they served as both Gaurdians and structural support for the temple towers.
A major emphasis (again) on the Ramakien epic, or Epic of the Monkey Wars
Thai Apsara that are hybridized with animals – chickens, monkeys, dragons and lions. Apsara in Thailand are angels and are not represented by the dancers that we saw as a dominant feature of Cambodian worship.
A stone Scale Model of Angkor Wat – a gift from the French in 1862. Hundreds of Thai scribes were dispatched to draw the ruins and imagine the complete structure. This 150 foot square model is now the basis for the UNESCO restoration in Cambodia today.
The center piece of the complex is the Temple of the Emerald Buddha – 6 foot tall and pure jade. It was discovered hidden in 1434, buried and covered with plaster in Northern Thailand. It is venerated by Buddhists the world over (we saw it from a distance but didn’t brave the mob). Three times a year the King personally changes the Buddha’s golden robes to reflect the season. It’s winter now.
It’s interesting that the campus is a combination of palace and temple. A Theravada belief is that Vishnu has occasionally been reincarnated as a Thai King, usually in times of great crisis or war. This is a belief that many Thai Kings have tried to leverage for power and advantage.
Also in the complex is the Queen’s Pavilion constructed in 1884. She thought the gold leaf, and bright tile too egoist and gauche. So she constructed an elegant white building with French and moorish influences
The Palace itself was off limits due to the period of morning. But this administrative building is representative (and the monks add a nice touch).
Off to Lunch. “What do you think honey, street food?”
Mac and Juju explore Southeast Asia 